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Buck Material

Page history last edited by PBworks 18 years, 2 months ago

Buck Material

 

"This material works better than the green flower foam in my experience, as it is a much harder material. Keep in mind that you cannot hotwire urethane foam, if that is a concern.

The two-part expanding foams such as this would typically be poured into a hollow former immediately after mixing - you let it expand into the volume and let harden, then shape it later with shurfoam files or hacksaw blades and rough sandpaper. This foam needs to be contained while it is expanding, otherwise it runs all over the place and sticks and bonds to everything, including your clothes." Rennie Clayton

 

"You need urethane foam, you can bondo it, prime, paint, glass over it any thing. if your parts are small, you can buy small packs of usable green foam from florists or flower and garden shops (the kind they stick the flowers into for arrangements]). If you need larger (2'x8'x2-4-6") try the link (above). They also have tooling board which is very dense, and more expensive, but works like soft wood. Glue it together with bondo. I usually thin it down with poly resin to make the joints thin, makes it easier to sand. The florist foam is not real dense (i.e. largeporosity), but you're coating and finishing the surface any way. Largely it's cheap and works! Good luck." Dave Craddock

 

 

  • Melamine board

"If you are wanting to make molds of square things like boxes and what-not, that don't involve compound curves or fillets, then you're almost better off using melamine board screwed together to construct the mold. That, and glass work out pretty well for flat surfaces." Rennie Clayton

 

  • Styrofoam

"I have used Styrofoam covered with dry wall compound on an air box and a body. The advantages are that it is cheap and easy to sand (you can use a damp sponge for faring). The disadvantages are it is very soft (you can dent it leaning on it while sanding), the dry wall compound must be applied in fairly thin layers, and ALL the foam must be completely covered before painting or glassing (see the nice holes solvents can make). This is not a recommendation, just another alternative." Chuck Smith

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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